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Domaine Mathieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Brothers André and Jérôme manage the family estate of Mathieu, a family that traces its roots in Châteauneuf-du-Pape back to the 16th century. Within this AOC they farm 20 hectares, or nearly 50 acres, that break down into an astonishing 54 parcels of vines. These parcels grow in every type of soil in the appellation, giving the brothers a great degree of diversity. All 13 varieties are present, and in aggregate the average age of the vines is sixty-five years old. In addition, the brothers farm 4.5 hectares of vines in AOC Côtes du Rhône immediately outside the Châteauneuf border to the northwest. There, they have four parcels.
The style here is both old and new. Sometimes the Grenache is de-stemmed, sometimes not; it depends on the health of the grapes. Normally, the Syrah is de-stemmed. Mathieu’s classic Châteauneuf is made traditionally in old foudres (big casks). The prestige range is made in cask and in barrel, and these wines take their names from Anselme Mathieu. He was a 19th century ancestor renowned for his wine and poetry who helped found Le Félibrige in 1854, a group dedicated to preserving the language and customs of Provence.
Regardless of a given style or a given vessel for aging, all of the Mathieu cuvées share a common aim of sumptuous ripeness without crossing over into surmaturité and chest-beating levels of alcohol.
The Wines
- Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Château Mar: This comes from 4.5 hectares (11 acres) that grow across the AOC border of Châteauneuf, just northwest of the Maucoil and Cabrières zones. Raised in cement vats and based on Grenache with roughly 35% Syrah. The wine is made "on the fruit," Jérôme says, and he’s not kidding. Limited.
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc: From 1.8 hectares with a base of Clairette, then 40-45% Grenache Blanc and some
Gris, 5% Bourboulenc and 5 % Picpoul. Most is made in tank except a dollop of barrel-fermented Clairette, and all malo is blocked
by filtration. The wine is unusually fresh for its type. Production averages 375 cases.
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape: This is based on 80-85% Grenache, followed by a field blend of varietals. The wine
is raised in foudre for sixteen to nineteen months, bottled without fining and only a very light filtration. Average
production is 2,250 cases.
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Marquis Anselme Mathieu: Centenarian vines, coming from two parcels planted
in 1890 and 1892. They grow in La Font du Pape immediately east of the village, and in Barbe d’Asne just to the west. Combined
surface is 2.2 hectares, or about 5.5 acres. The wine is based on 85% Grenache, followed by a field blend, aged in the house’s
oldest foudre (approaching centenarian) and bottled after fourteen to sixteen months. This cuvée is made only in
good years. Production averages 500 cases.
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vin di Felibre: Based on Mourvèdre (roughly 80%) from one hectare of vines growing on dense limestone soils, and planted in 1952 and in 1982. This is aged roughly half in foudre and half in young barrels. Made only in the good years, with a production about 300 cases.
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