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france: languedoc

Domaine Antugnac, Limoux

Domaine Antugnac, Limoux

In 1997, Domaine Antugnac was purchased by Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier. The two were childhood friends from the village of Davayé, and grew to become business partners of Domaine Des Deux Roches in the Mâconnais. Looking to expand, they focused on Languedoc where land prices were much better than in Burgundy. Antugnac quickly became the clear choice.

The domaine is roughly fifty miles west of Carcassonne in a lovely, isolated mountain valley hidden in the Pyrenean foothills, anchored by the old village of Antugnac (its church was built as a kind of bastide, or fortified building, to protect the villagers from marauding bands in the middle ages). The vineyard parcels start at the village but the majority climb the heights of the south-facing flanks, growing between 280 and 530 meters above sea level in meager limestone soils.

In 2000, the partners installed David Serodes as manager of the estate. It proved to be an inspired choice—Serodes understood at once that what this location offered was Languedoc’s southern exposures tempered strongly by mountain coolness (Limoux’s Haute Vallée is markedly cooler than surrounding areas, particularly at night, and this influence is such that the old vine Chardonnay here follows the same vegetative cycle as the partners’ Chardonnay in Mâcon). Wine from these mountain vines could achieve sunny ripeness coupled with distinct freshness. And in David’s hands, it does, at every level. He hails from Languedoc and studied enology at Monpellier. He has a wrestler’s build and, like many a broad-shouldered man, a light touch, which he has practiced deftly throughout his tenure (as witnessed by the fabulous review David Schildknecht gave him for his Pinot Noir). He begins harvesting at two in the morning and normally stops around eleven am, before the hot weather commences. He does fairly short extractions. He looks for fruit, not power.

Beginning in 2002, the partners began planting new, high-density parcels on Antugnac’s hillsides. Today, the domaine farms 180 acres. The majority is planted in Chardonnay, but thirteen varieties are cultivated. Three ranges of wine are made: a base range of fresh wines labeled Closerie des Lys (based on grapes from the domaine but, depending on the year, augmented by grapes purchased on the négociant market); a mid-range of varietally-named VdP wines labeled under the Domaine’s label; and the Domaine’s AOC Limoux wines.

The Wines