france: burgundy
Domaine Alain Normand, Mâconnais
Alain Normand is a young vigneron in the Mâconnais who rents land in métayage, a common practice whereby the landlord is paid in wine. Alain works the vineyards, makes the wine, and sells off the landlord's portion to négociants. He keeps the finest for himself.
He works ten hectares in La Roche-Vineuse: one in Pinot Noir, three in Gamay, and six in Chardonnay. In 2003, he also took control of his father-in-law's well-situated parcel in Pouilly-Fuissé. Alain practices lutte raisonnée, or reasoned fight, which means that at heart he's organic—compost, lots of tilling, using hormones to sexually confuse the bad bugs, and so forth—but will use synthetic sprays if absolutely necessary. He hand-harvests, ferments with native yeast, works extensively (and very well) with lees, and normally does not filter his wines. The fermentations are never rushed. For example, the 04 classique was bottled in November of 2005, which is a remarkably long élevage and proof positive that this man does not allow market considerations to take precedence over quality.
The Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse white is made in vat; the old vine cuvée and Pouilly-Fuissé are made in a mixture of old and new barrels. The parcel of vieilles vignes was planted just after World War II and grows in front of his house high above the village (the name La Roche-Vineuse refers to the huge, nearly vertical outcropping of limestone that the village nestles up against).
His Chardonnays are not obvious. In place of simple fruit, you will find a vein of minerals supporting a lovely mouthful of Chardonnay and spice from the lees that runs long and never grows tiring to drink. This is serious Mâcon and it is delicious.
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